top of page

Looking after elderly rats

Looking after elderly rats is a normal and unavoidable part of owning rats. With age, their needs can change and it is good to be aware of those age related changes, so we can adjust accordingly.

As our loved pets age, they become more frail so it is importan to make sure that their environment is as safe as possible as avoiding injuries as these will happen much easier when the body is old and frail.

In this article, we will be discussing cage adjustments, diet, kidneys, exercise, hygiene, health checks and how to eventually face the reality of having to make difficult choices regarding end of life. 

Index

Please click on any of the buttons below to jump to a specific subject

Cage adjustments

There are many things to take into consideration with older rats, but one of the most important ones is general cage safety. With age, rats lose a lot of their agility and just like us humans, become more prone to accidents and will get injured over things they wouldn't have as youngins. With age, bones especially become more frail, but also the body’s over ability to heal even small injuries slows down significantly. Because of this, it is very important to modify your cage in a way that prevents little falls and other little accidents more than before. Even a tiny fall can have big consequences when the impact lands on brittle old bones.

 

Many things that have been perfectly suitable for younger rats can pose a large danger to old rats with reduced mobility. Things such as ropes, scarf hangers, and other fairly unstable and narrow cage decor can cause an older rat to take a bad fall. Flat hammocks and other fairly stable and wide surface cage decor is ideal for older rats. To make the cage extra safe, it is best to provide additional fall breaks with hammocks and make easy and obvious routes around the cage utilising ramps, low hammocks, and other accessories that do not rely on the rats’ good fine motoric skills and grip strength. 

 

Many old rats start to spend more time on the floor of the cage, so it is important to provide them with comfortable hides, but also toys and other enrichments that are hanging low down enough for the ground dwelling oldies to reach and play with. Many old rats who tend to spend most of their time on the ground do still enjoy hammocks. Many old rats really appreciate it if you provide at least one hammock in the cage that is just barely off the ground. This allows them to still enjoy hammocks in a safe and comfortable way.

Here are some easy ways to make a cage more suitable for older rats:

Cage adjustments

01

​Replace things such as ropes and scarf hangers with something more stable with wider surface area such as flat hammocks, platforms and baskets.​

02

​Add ramps to make the cage more accessible without having to climb bars

Make sure that there are good fall breaks more frequently

03

All feeding should happen ground level to make sure that even the rats with reduced mobility can get to the food easily. High up forage toys can remain for younger rats in the cage, but main food should always be accessible from ground level

04

Water bottles should be accessible without climbing on the bars or reaching awkward places. It is best to have bottles reachable from ground level or on a platform with a ramp leading to it for easy access.

05

Make sure there is comfortable nesting material such as fleece stips available on ground level for oldies who no longer tend to wander high up into hammocks.

Diet & Kidneys

As age catches up with a living being, it affects the body in many ways. Old bodies struggle a lot more with holding on to weight and with gaining it. This is because of a combination of many things such as, loss of lean body mass, slowing down of the metabolism, hormonal changes and slowly decreasing kidney functions. Kidneys play a large part in the body condition of elderly rats. Both does and bucks can develop kidney failure that causes the kidneys to lose functionality over time. Obvious signs do not tend to show until the kidneys reach around 25% function over time. Males tend to be more prone to developing issues with their kidneys at old age.

 

As the metabolism slows and the kidneys are on edge at old age, it is important to look at your rats diet and asses if there are things that should be changed, such as swapping  from scatter feeding to bowl feeding, changing the types of treats you use or even a full overhaul of your rats daily diet to make sure they get all the vital nutrients in an easy to digest form.

 

Being aware of kidney health is important throughout your rats’ entire life, but with age it becomes more and more important.

With compromised kidney function, it is important to adhere to a kidney friendly diet and cut down the amount of waste in the blood. Waste in the blood comes from food and liquids that we give to our pets. When the function of the kidneys is compromised, the kidneys ability to filter and remove this waste is not working properly. Waste that is left in the blood affects the body's electrolyte levels and much more. Following a kidney friendly diet can help promote the kidneys remaining functions and slow down the progress of kidney failure. 

 

Kidney friendly diets are low in sodium, phosphorus, and protein. Limiting unnecessary fluids, potassium and calcium can also be an important part of a kidney friendly diet. The loss of kidney function progresses at different speeds rat to rat, so what you have seen in one rat, might not be the exact same in another. Others progress very rapidly, while others may have slow stable progression. 

 

Let's talk about the main culprits - sodium, phosphorus, protein and liquids.

diet

Sodium

Sodium is one of the minerals found in most foods. Most people think of salt and sodium as interchangeable, but this is not exactly correct. Salt is actually a compound of sodium AND chloride. Foods that we offer our rats may contain salt or they may contain sodium in other forms. Heavily processed foods, such as lunch meats contain higher levels of sodium because of the added salt.

What does sodium do?

Sodium is one of the body’s three major electrolytes. Electrolytes control the fluids going in and out of the body’s different cells and tissues. Sodium contributes to the regulation and balance of many important bodily functions such as:

  • Blood pressure and volume 

  • Nerve function and muscle contraction 

  • Acid-base balance of blood

  • How much fluids the body keeps and gets rid off

Why is it important to control sodium intake

Too much sodium is harmful to the kidneys, but especially to kidneys that cannot properly eliminate excess sodium and fluid from the body. When sodium and fluids build up in the tissues and bloodstream, it can cause a long list of problems, such as:

  • Excess thirst

  • Swelling in the limbs and face

  • Heart failure from enlarged and weak heart due to excess fluid in the bloodstream

  • Respiratory distress due to fluid build up in the lungs

 

How to control rats’ sodium intake 

  • Always make sure to read the labels on treats and understand the composition

  • Be mindful of the amount of treats and food given. It is best to have set meal time in the day for older rats with a set amount of food instead of 24/7 free access to food. 

  • Avoid highly processed meats, both human and pet grade ones.

  • Prioritise fresh over canned or frozen

  • Avoid sharing food from your own plate as it will have been cooked with spices, many which have added salts

  • Do not under any circumstances use supplement powders, liquids or anything with your rats. These should not be used with your rats anyway, but with rats who already have compromised kidneys, adding supplements to their water and/or food can be a question of life and death very quickly.

  • Do not under any circumstances allow mineral or salt licks in your rats cage. These should not be used with rats at any point of their life ever, but a rat that has compromised kidneys can very easily find its death rapidly from these.

Potassium

Potassium, just like sodium, is a mineral that is found in many different foods, but it is also naturally found in the body. Potassium plays an important role in keeping the heartbeat regular and the muscles working as they should. Kidneys make sure that the correct amount of potassium is being kept in the body and that all the excess is removed from the body with urine. Compromised kidneys will struggle to appropriately control potassium levels in the body and dispose of all the excess potassium

 

What does potassium do

Just like sodium, potassium is necessary for the balanced maintenance of fluids and electrolytes in the bloodstream. Potassium plays an important part in many of the body’s functions, such as:

  • Balances fluids in the body, making sure there is enough fluid in the cells.

  • Normal and healthy muscle contractions, including the heart

  • Bone health

  • Preserves kidney function

  • Regulates the nervous system

  • Overall heart health

 

Why is it important to control potassium intake

When kidneys have compromised function and they begin to fail, they can no longer remove excess potassium properly. This inability to remove the excess potassium properly results in the potassium building up in the body. High potassium levels in the blood is called “hyperkalemia” which can have several effects on the body, such as:

  • Muscle weakness

  • Abnormal heart beat

  • Slow pulse

  • Heart attacks

  • Death

How to control rat’s potassium intake

  • Always make sure to read the labels on treats and understand the composition

  • Avoid highly processed meats, both human and pet grade ones.

  • Prioritise fresh over canned or frozen

  • Avoid sharing food from your own plate as it will have been cooked with spices, many which have added salts

  • Minimal amounts of dairy products

  • Avoid foods high in potassium, such as; dried fruits, potatoes, spinach, broccoli, beets, avocado and bananas

  • Do not under any circumstances use supplement powders, liquids or anything with your rats. These should not be used with your rats anyway, but with rats who already have compromised kidneys, adding supplements to their water and/or food can be a question of life and death very quickly.

  • Do not under any circumstances allow mineral or salt licks in your rats cage. These should not be used with rats at any point of their life ever, but a rat that has compromised kidneys can very easily find its death rapidly from these.

Protein

Protein is an important player in the body’s normal functions, and generally is not an issue to healthy kidneys. Under normal circumstances, protein is ingested and waste products are created, which then get filtered by the kidneys. Additional renal proteins will help to turn the excess waste into urine. Kidneys with compromised function fail to remove the protein waste which then leads to it accumulating in the blood.

Protein consumption with compromised kidneys is a tricky subject as the effects and amount can vary a lot depending on the stage the kidney failure has reached. Protein is essential for tissue maintenance and many other functions in the body, so it is important to still make sure your rat gets good quality and healthy proteins in an amount that is safe for them. 

 

What does protein do

Proteins play a key role in making sure that the body’s cells remain in good shape. Protein is made up of amino acids, which are often known as building blocks. Proteins allow your body to repair and build itself along many other functions such as:

  • Healthy and proper function of digestion

  • Healthy Hormone regulation

  • Healthy blood and normal oxygenation

  • Tissue repair and healing

  • Building blocks for bones, muscles, cartilage, skin, nails and hair. 

 

Why it is important to control protein intake

Excess protein can cause issues even in rats with perfectly functional kidneys, but rats with compromised kidney function will be in danger of protein toxicity due to the body's inability to filter out the waste correctly and efficiently. It is important to note that protein poisoning is not the same. Protein poisoning is due to excessive protein intake without sufficient carb and fats balancing out the nutrients. Excess waste in the body will result in many symptoms even before protein toxicity is reached.

Protein toxicity happens when there is a build up of protein metabolic waste due to kidneys with compromised function. Ammonia is one of the waste products created by protein metabolism, and is extremely harmful. Ammonia has the ability to cross the blood brain barrier, which makes it very harmful to the brain. When ammonia passes the blood brain barrier due to protein toxicity, it can lead to a wide range of neurological dysfunctions from varying cognitive impairment to death. Excess waste from protein can lead to many symptoms before and during protein toxicity, such as:

 

  • Brittle nails and poor coat quality

  • Weakness and and increased hunger

  • Weakened immune system

  • Stress fractures

  • Muscle weakness

  • Abnormal blood sugar and protein fluctuation which affects the brain's neurotransmitters.

  • Loss of appetite

  • Cognitive impairments

  • Death

 

How to control protein intake

  • Always make sure to read the labels on treats and understand the composition

  • Use a base diet that is low in protein, with rats who have compromised kidney function, you should not cross 15% in protein.

  • Avoid animal protein based treats, especially red meats

  • Avoid nuts, peanuts and seeds as treats

  • Avoid dairy products as treats

  • Do not under any circumstances use supplement powders, liquids or anything with your rats. These should not be used with your rats anyway, but with rats who already have compromised kidneys, adding supplements to their water and/or food can be a question of life and death very quickly.

Phosphorus

Phosphorus is the second most plentiful mineral found in the body after calcium.Many foods contain phosphorus and it is an essential mineral needed for the body's normal functions. Most of the body’s phosphorus can be found in the bones, teeth, blood and soft tissues. Kidneys with normal function can remove excess phosphorus from the blood. When the kidneys are compromised, they can no longer remove the excess phosphorus appropriately. 

 

What does phosphorus do

Phosphorus is an important building block for bones, teeth, DNA, RNA and many other things. On top of that, phosphorus is involved in making ATP, which is an energy source for the body’s cells, as well as maintaining pH balances, storing energy and activating enzymes.

  • Bone and dental health

  • Energy production and storing

  • Normal kidney function

  • Build, repair and maintain tissue and cells

  • DNA and RNA production

  • Regular heartbeat maintenance

  • Balancing minerals and vitamins in the body

 

Why is it important to control phosphorus

High levels of phosphorus in the body can cause a large variety of issues. It can pull calcium out of the bones causing them to become weaker. On top of weak bones, this can also lead to dangerous levels of calcium deposits in the eyes, lungs, heart and blood vessels. High levels of phosphorus also affect the body's ability to effectively use other minerals and vitamins. Excess phosphorus can lead to many other symptoms such as:

  • Diarrhea

  • Hardening of organs and tissue

  • Inability to use other minerals and vitamins appropriately ( such as iron, calcium, zinc, magnesium, etc.)

  • Weak bones

  • Dangerous calcium deposits in the eyes, lungs, heart and blood vessels

 

How to control phosphorus intake

  • Always make sure to read the labels on treats and understand the composition. Phosphorus can be labeled as PHOS on the ingredient list

  • Prioritise fresh over canned or frozen

  • Avoid animal protein based treats, especially red meats

  • Avoid nuts, peanuts and seeds as treats

  • Avoid dairy products as treats

  • Avoid lentils

  • Do not under any circumstances use supplement powders, liquids or anything with your rats. These should not be used with your rats anyway, but with rats who already have compromised kidneys, adding supplements to their water and/or food can be a question of life and death very quickly.

Liquids

Liquids are a vital part of the daily intake. Rats should always have access to clean water with NO additives, vitamins or anything else. Fluid control is important when dealing with failing kidneys as the fluid can build up in the body and become dangerous when the function of the kidneys is compromised. As rats do need constant free access to water, the best way to limit excess intake is to avoid treats and foods that naturally have a high water content, such as cucumber, melon,and  tomatoes for example.

 

Summary

It is natural for kidney function to start going down with age, and because we know this it allows us to prepare and act accordingly. Kidney failure comes in many stages at different speeds and has a wide range of symptoms that affect every corner of the body. And when we understand some of the common symptoms, we can assess our rats’ quality of life much better in old age.

Here is a quick and easy list of the general rules to follow when dealing with old rats that are presenting with kidney failure symptoms

  • Always be aware of the labeling and composition of main food and treats that you use with your rats

  • Avoid dairy and egg products where possible. Dairy products are a great source of protein, but they are also high in phosphorus.

  • Avoid all processed foods, especially meats, both pet and humans grade

  • Avoid human snacks like crisps, pretzels, etc. These are very high in sodium

  • Favour fresh foods over canned foods, canned foods are very high in sodium

  • Many fruits and vegetables are healthy, but very heavy on kidneys that are already struggling. With compromised kidneys it is best to limit:

    • Avocados

    • Bananas

    • Citrus

    • Spinach

    • Fruits and veg with high water content such as tomatoes, cucumber and lettuce

    • Nuts, seeds and peanuts

  • Do not under any circumstances use supplement powders, liquids or anything with your rats. These should not be used with your rats anyway, but with rats who already have compromised kidneys, adding supplements to their water and/or food can be a question of life and death very quickly.

  • Do not under any circumstances allow mineral or salt licks in your rats cage. These should not be used with rats at any point of their life ever, but a rat that has compromised kidneys can very easily find its death rapidly from these.

 

While it can feel like there is a very long list of limitations and rules, there are still many things that are kidney friendly! Here is a little list to help you navigate some kidney friendly options:

 

Fruits

  • Cranberries, blueberries, pineapple, plums

Vegetables

  • Bell peppers, cauliflowers, peas, kale

Proteins

  • Chicken, fish, beans

Carbohydrates

  • White rice, barley, buckwheat

Kidney failure

What does kidney failure look like in reality?

Kidney failure in rats can present in many ways depending on what stage of the failure they are at. Mammals in general don't show significant signs of kidney failure until the kidneys’ function is already down a lot. The most noticeable sign in older rats is a very specific drop pattern in quality. What you will notice is that the health of the fur itself starts decreasing and it will start to look very scraggly and unhealthy. Rats in kidney failure will start to struggle with holding on and gaining weight. As a result of this, rats who are going through kidney failure will eventually become very thin and frail, and often present with a very hunched posture. The drop in weight and fur quality will be very noticeable and easy to spot once you have seen it before.

 

Another sign that many do not think to associate with kidney failure is the HLD, aka hind leg deterioration. Most rat owners are already familiar with this condition, especially with boys. Most people associate this with arthritis, which is not incorrect either. HLD can be caused by arthritis and joint problems as well, but a lot of the time it is a symptom of kidney failure that goes unrecognised. A good 70% of HLD in rats is kidney related, and the remaining 30% is joint related.

As discussed previously, during kidney failure the body can start to pull calcium from the bones, which leads to fragility in the bones. The body also stops digesting protein in a way that is appropriate and as a result, the waste build ups in the body, including ammonia. The combination of calcium being pulled from the bones, ammonia and other waste building in the body and penetrating the blood brain barrier, and the body’s compromised ability to utilize protein is what leads to kidney related HLD. With the lack of correctly absorbed and utilised protein, the first part of the body that is prone to muscle wastage is the hind legs and other muscles needed for mobility in the pelvic region.

 

Due to the kidneys often being involved in HLD, medicating it with painkillers and other medications may provide relief, but on the other hand pain medications and anti inflammatories will speed up the rate at which the kidneys are failing. 

 

In rats kidney failure cannot be cured or reversed, not can they be offered dialysis like we can with people. It is important to understand that kidney failure is eventually terminal, but is also a relatively “normal” part of aging, it is not anything weird or unusual to say. Because it is terminal and there isn’t treatment for it, it is extremely important to be proactive and realistic when it comes to euthanasia. Rat in kidney failure will eventually reach a stage where it is not ethical to keep them alive purely for our attachment and emotions. The decision to put a loved animal down when its time is very difficult, but these difficult choices are some of the most important choices we have to make as rat owners as they cannot vocalise to us their needs, desires, feelings or suffering.

Exercise

exercise

As the body gets frail and old, it is still important to make sure the rat(s) still get their little bodies moving. Regular mild exercise helps to keep the body going. Maintaining healthy muscle mass, bone and joint health is really important with old animals. Casual free roam without many obstacles is actually a great way to get this exercise in. A large flat floor space is very safe for an old rat as it does not possess a fall risk while still allowing them to have a good stretch of their legs. A flat floor space can be combined with fun toys and activities that pose minimal injury risk. Great free roam activities for old rats, especially if they already have reduced mobility can be things such as

 

Paper bags with tissue and treats in them, different textures on the floor, jingle balls, treat toys and many other smaller toys and obstacles that don't encourage unnecessary climbing to uneven surfaces.

 

Things such as pea fishing can still be lots of fun for old rats with reduced mobility, but it is very important to save this activity for nice warm days and make sure that the dish used is nice and shallow in case the old rat decides to venture fully into the water. They need to be able to exit the water dish easily without assistance.

Hygiene

Hygiene

As our pets age, their hygiene tends to drop. This is caused by several age related things such as lower energy levels, reduced mobility and flexibility, etc. This drop in hygiene often results in things like increased general stinkiness of the rat, ungroomed nails and tails, eye and nose gunk, penis plugs in bucks, increased risk of UTI, increased risk of mites. The best way we can help elderly rats with their hygiene is regular maintenance once we notice signs of age related hygiene drop.

 

Rats should never be bathed for hygiene maintenance. The only time rats should be bathed is if they have come in contact with a hazardous substance. 

 

If a rat is overall stinky and gross, but is not covered in anything dangerous, the best way to help the hygiene situation is by gently wiping the rat down with baby wipes or a slightly damp cloth. Make sure that the room the rats are in does not have any open windows while the rat is damp, and that it is appropriately warm for the slightly damp rat. Keeping the body hygienic by wiping will also help reduce the risk of UTIs

 

These same tools can be used to gently wipe the ears, paws and tail.

A gunky nose or eyes can be easily cleared by wiping them very gently with slightly damp tissue.

 

Old rats with reduced mobility will benefit from having their nails trimmed regularly. Irregular walking can easily cause the nails to grow and break funny.

 

Mites are a fairly common thing seen in rats as a whole, but old rats are more prone to them due to hygiene issues. Keeping the enclosure and rat clean will help significantly. Mite treatments such as topical ivermectin is also that can be given preventatively without issues, so for some people it may be beneficial to treat animals routinely as a prevention.

 

Penis plugs are a buck only issue that happens mainly in older rats and rats that struggle to keep up with hygiene due to mobility issues. Most cases are resolved at home, but if signs of infection or significant inflammation is present, it is best to see a vet as medication may be required for appropriate after care.

 

Penis plugs that are not presenting with significant swelling or signs of infection can be addressed at home by following these instructions:

 

  • Please ensure that great care is taken when removing penis plugs as you do not want to cause unnecessary irritation or damage to any tissue

  • Gently apply pressure with your thumb and index finger approximately half a cm distance on each side of the penis. Gently and carefully massage to project the penis outwards from the sheath

  • Carefully remove the plug

  • If the plug is stuck on firm, apply a small amount of cooking oil on the penis to help the plug to come off easier and to prevent additional irritation to the tender tissue

  • If the plug cannot be removed gently with minimal irritation at home, it is best to see a vet instead of risking causing additional irritation or additional injury to the sensitive area.

Health checks

health checks

Just like with rats of every age, it is important to keep an eye on your rats' health and body condition. With old rats this becomes even more important as they are becoming more frail, more prone to illnesses and accidents. It is good to have a quick look over when you handle the rats each day. A quick health and body check prevents small issues spiraling out of hand and becoming big issues. The sooner something is spotted, the easier it is to treat if needed. Here are easy steps you can take to keep an eye on your rats’ health

 

  • As with all rats, you want to make sure to check the rat for any signs of mites or other topical parasites. This is best done by checking around the face, under the chin, and back of the neck for any new scabs.  If you notice any signs of parasites, please read our entry regarding parasites.

  • Older rats tend to have reduced mobility, so it is important to check their, paws, limbs and underside for any signs of sores.

  • Check the eyes and nose for excessive discharge. A little bit of red discharge is normal, especially after waking up. This is called porphyrin and is the equivalent to snot so to say. If this appears in constant and excessive amounts, it may be worth investigating if there are any underlying issues that require further vet attention, such as respiratory issues or eye infections. 

  • Checking the ears for any discharge and odd odors. Discharge and/or unpleasant odor from the ears can often indicate an ear infection. Older rats are somewhat more prone to these due to their reduced mobility which affects their ability to tend to their ears.

  • Hold the rat's body against your ear and give the lungs a listen. If you can hear crackling, popping, chirping or any other unusual sounds, your rat may need to see a vet. Older rats can have worse breathing by default due to past health events and lung scarring, so it is important to assess your rats health while taking into consideration their history. Many rats may sound a little congested if the humidity is very high on that day.

  • Quick full body check for any injuries. Old rats are more likely to hurt themselves due to reduced mobility

  • It is good to give the teeth a quick check as old rats are more likely to fall from places. Poor landing from a fall can cause teeth to break.

  • It is important to check that there are no signs of blood around the penis or vagina. If you see signs of blood from the penis or vagina, the rat should be taken to the vets straight away.

  • Old rats tend to neglect their nails so it is good to check if their nails are getting quite long. If the nails seem long, it is good to cut them, especially if the rat has reduced mobility.

  • While checking your rat, it is good to give their body a general feel around to assess their body condition. Old rats often suffer from kidney failure eventually, so it is important to keep an eye on their body condition and weight.

Discussion of euthanasia

euth

Death is a part of owning pets, and it's not something that can be avoided. What was once born, must eventually die. Knowing this, we need to prepare for the day when we need to make hrd decision regarding the end of life of our pet. 

 

Many, but not all pets do end up requiring assistance with their passing. It can be hard to come face to face with making the decision of letting a loved pet go, but this hard decision is one of the most important decisions we will make for that pet. Our rats cannot verbally communicate to us how they feel or what they’re experiencing. As prey animals, rats are notorious for pushing forwards until their bodies fail and they physically can't keep going anymore. This is very important to understand when making decisions regarding euthanasia. A rat may appear happy enough going on with its day to day life regardless of large tumours, illness, late stage kidney failure, wounds and so on. Rats are extremely resilient creatures, but as they are made according to nature's prey design, they will try to keep going on until the end. A rat appearing okay does not mean this is the case. For example, a rat with a massive tumour might be trying to do its best to do all the normal rat things, but internally that tumour is stealing nutrients, blood supply, causing the skin to stretch abnormally, sores to form on the skin and so on. In the body, much more is happening internally than what we can see from the outside.

 

As pet owners, it is our responsibility to ensure that our pets do not have to go through unnecessary suffering, and this is most present during the end of life care. We need to accept and recognise when it is time to let the animal go. It is better to let the animal go while they still have some sort of quality of life, instead of waiting till they are nothing but a husk that is just existing.

 

 It is important to sit down with yourself and learn to come to terms with death, and find the best way for you to cope with loss. But most importantly, you need to be able to put your rats’ wellbeing, safety and happiness before any of your own feelings, that is your duty as an owner. 

 

Coping with loss of a pet

There is no right way to cope with loss, so we shouldn't hold ourselves to some preset expectation. Some people cry, some don't. Some people want to bring the body home from the vets, some don't. Some people choose to cremate their rats, some don’t. There is no right way to go about loss, what matters the most is to go about it in a way that is right for you.

 

Not every loss will feel the same. Many things affect the way we react to losing a loved pet. For many it is much easier to come to terms with the loss of an elderly pet compared to a young one. For those who have a heart rat, losing a heart rat usually stings a little bit more. And all of that is okay. You should never feel like you're not grieving enough, or that you're grieving too much. You aren’t even obligated to grieve. Many people may come to terms with the loss of a pet before it happens, this is something many experience with older pets because the death was expected so to say. Just like you shouldn’t force yourself to handle death in a certain way, the same rule should be applied to those around you. Just because someone else handles death differently, does not mean they’re wrong. Some people may be completely okay with the situation, while some people might need a lot of emotional support from people around them. Both of these are okay, and everything in between.

 

There are many ways people find comfort after their rat passes. Here are some common ways people cope with loss:

 

  • Cremation and keeping the ashes

  • Cremation and scattering the ashes

  • Burying the body ( if buried into open soil it should be at least 5 meters from any known sources of water)

  • Burying the body into a flower pot

  • Disposing of the body, but planting a flower in the rat’s memory

  • Getting your favourite picture of the rat framed or turned into a keychain

  • Sharing good memories with other rat owning friends

  • Doing some sort of drawing, paining, crafts etc as a memorial

  • Memorial tattoos

  • Simply disposing of the body and continuing on with the rat in your thoughts

bottom of page